" Straw yellow, with a fine, fast-moving silver-white bead. There is a bracing saline whiff – oyster shell and sea vegetables – then poached spiced pear, warm crusty bread, lemon curd and guava aromas. The flavours are crisp and quite lean initially, then they broaden out to a clean, fresh lively flow, with a mineral undertow. Notes of kumquat and honey creep in and join the party; the mousse stays delicate and beautifully fresh on the long finish. Beautiful wine. "