Champagne trophy winner 2020: Waitrose & Partners Special Réserve Brut 2008
^ Waitrose & Partners' Wine Buyer Rebecca Hull
One of the many reasons Waitrose & Partners scooped the IWSC Wine Supermarket of the year award in 2019, was for its innovation in wine retail and the way it was outperforming the market in several key categories. Chief among them was Champagne, in which the chain had seen +17% growth against a market decline of -8%.
Testament to its Champagne expertise, Waitrose has delivered yet again. This year its Special Réserve Brut 2008 was awarded a trophy, something only reserved for the highest-scoring wines of their type. IWSC judges found it 'elegant, glittering and ostentatious' and 'brimming with piercing stone and citrus fruit aromas'.
In a category that shone at the IWSC this year, with seven gold medals, 59 silver and 119 bronze, winning a Champagne trophy was no mean feat – only three such trophies were awarded in total. Rubbing shoulders with Waitrose's own-label offering was a big established name, as well as a modish grower bottling.
As we enter into the festive season, a time of year synonymous with celebration, indulgence and bubbles, we caught up with Waitrose wine buyer Rebecca Hull, to discuss assemblage, (Champagne) ageing and awards.
Our judges found the overall quality of own-label Champagnes impressive this year – what do you think attributed to its success?
Champagne has always been synonymous with quality. Given the control over yields, own-label examples come with this benefit, as well as with the overlaid value perception of the brand that they are labelled with. This means that, judging liquid alone, they have a great chance of standing out from the crowd for value at all price points.
What do you look for in the Champagne partner who will create your own-label wine?
Quality and consistency are the main things, along with value for money at the very best quality we can deliver. We also work in partnership with producers who share our values and support our long term goals.
How did you decide on the final assemblage in your award-winning Special Réserve Brut 2008?
As with all blends, it's all about balance, though we are also keen to ensure that the character of the vintage shines through as any good example should - it's not just about age for the sake of it. We were also keen to ensure that it ages with grace and depth, so the 50% Chardonnay contributes both elegance and a beautifully nutty note and freshness as it evolves. However, it also needs Pinot Noir's fruit, so 38% top quality Pinot contributes that, with the balance of Pinot Meunier adding a core of rich fruit. We worked closely with the house to ensure that we were completely happy with the blend, with much discussion before it was finally signed off between the house and the buyer!
Do you think Champagne drinkers are becoming more savvy and know that they can buy quality own-label Champagne without the big brand price tag?
Yes and no! All wine drinkers in the UK are now lucky to have more choice than ever before, and I think private labels can be the answer to many 'wine choice' questions. However, there will also always be some occasions, for some customers, when only a 'name' will do. We think this Champagne is a wonderful balance between the two – top quality and a great price, suiting a wide range of different customers' occasions.
What’s the best food pairing for this wine?
It's actually incredibly versatile, but there's still nothing like vintage Champagne served with top quality fish and chips! However, it can pair beautifully with anything from cheese on toast to the smartest of scallop dishes.
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