^ The view of Mt Fuji in autumn from lake Kawaguchiko
There’s a mystical, magical tale that explains the origins of Japanese wine. An 8th-century holy man named Gyōki is believed to have received divine inspiration while praying and was moved to plant some vines at Katsunuma in the Yamanashi prefecture (region) in Honshu, and build a temple named Daizenji.
Whether this legend is true is open to debate, but Yamanashi was most definitely where the first commercial vineyards were planted in the late 19th century, and today the industry has grown to more than 200 wineries. Wine consumption is considerably higher in Japan than any other Asian country.
Koshu produces delicate, pale wines with clean, refined notes of citrus and jasmine – think of a more restrained Sauvignon Blanc – and they are also an excellent match for Japanese cuisine.
Koshu wines were well represented in the 2020 line-up of IWSC award-winners, and all hail from the Yamanashi region (‘prefecture’). Hombo Shuzo is one of the leading proponents, winning four IWSC Silvers for its Koshu wines, including a sparkling version with sprightly gooseberries and rhubarb on the palate, and an intriguing orange version with notes of Nashi pear and salted plum. Orange wine, one of the new breed of natural wine styles, is hugely popular in Japan, in part due to the umami character present in many of them – another cherished element of Japanese cuisine.
Here is a selection of the best Japanese wines as recommended from the IWSC's 2020 tasting.
Château Mars Koshu Orange Gris 2019
Hombo Shuzo
Japan
Lovely golden colour. White floral and umami nose. Some light tannins give balance to the nashi pear skin and salted plum fruit. Good acidity balances the sweetness. Long, pure finish. 12%
Grande Polaire Dry Koshu 2019
Sapporo Breweries
Japan
Clean and beautifully perfumed with minty notes. Elegant and fresh with nashi pear and salted sudachi lime. Zingy citrus-fruited finish that is gorgeous and very complex for a young wine. 12%
Zodiaque Pinot Noir 2018
Takahata Winery
Japan
A caress soft like velvet, she coaxes her prey with ripe red cherry, berries and plum. Oaky and opulent, she leaves you quivering with a finish as fresh as mint. 13.5%
Barrique Pinot Noir 2017
Takahata Winery
Japan
Curvy and captivating, this vixen seduces with ripe morello cherry, redcurrants, and a tease of sweet vanilla. Concentrated and complex, she's a Pinot worthy of the 'Noir' genre. 13.5%
Mars Koshu Sparkling 2018
Hombo Shuzo
Japan
She dances refreshingly light and sprightly, delicate yet exquisite with a palate of gorgeous gooseberry and racy rhubarb tart. An explosion of lemons and limes, she makes love so sublime. 11%
Château Mars Hosaka Shukaku Koshu 2019
Hombo Shuzo
Japan
Aromatic on the nose with floral and citrus notes. Elegant and lightly fruited with a stream of zesty acidity. Very pure and clean finish. 12%
Château Mars Shirane Koshu Sur Lie 2019
Hombo Shuzo
Japan
Delicious wine that starts with beautiful perfume. Zingy lemon fruit with intensity follows. Medium-bodied with a juicy finish. Bravo! 12%
Barrique Chardonnay 2018
Takahata Winery
Japan
Elegant on the nose and palate. Light citrus and lime add the freshness to the well-rounded palate. Charming wine with a complex, lingering finish. 13.5%
Japan Premium Tsugaru Sauvignon Blanc 2019
Suntory Shiojiri Winery
Japan
Pronounced and complex aromas of grapefruit, lemon and elderflower leap from the glass. Great fruit concentration in the mouth with grassy and pineapple flavours. Fresh with an uplifting finish. 12.5%
Grande Polaire Nagano Furusato Chardonnay 2019
Sapporo Breweries
Japan
Aromatic with a good body of citrus fruits. Young, fresh and vibrant but with a lovely full, round and textured palate. Long fruity finish. 12%